Sound Quality Painting

Painting Company Lake Stevens

Monday, May 17, 2021

THE PURPOSE OF PAINTS AND STAINS PART 2

THE FUNCTION OF PAINTS AND STAINS - PART II

This is part two of a 2 part series of articles on paints and stains.

High Demand Interior Paints Coatings for Each Job

Did you ever wonder about the difference between interior and exterior paints? I once used exterior paint on an inside ceiling, reasoning that it would last longer. It may last longer, but as I found out when I had to touch up the ceiling only 2 years later, exterior paints will discolor on an inside surface. Exterior paints contain special additives made to withstand the outdoors. Interior paints have additives that help the paint dry out to a durable, uniform surface finish.

Most of the advances in painting technology have been with latex. Actually, latex has overtaken oil-based paint in several areas: strength and elasticity, as well as ease of application, clean-up, and disposal. Latexes have fewer VOCs than oil-based paints. Some, including the Pristine brand created by Benjamin Moore, are made without VOCs whatsoever. Today's latexes are created with top quality pigments and binders that provide them more body, so each goes on thicker.

Latexes enjoy quite a lttle bit of reputation for interior applications, especially for walls and ceilings. Alkyds continue to be the professionals' choice for trimming work because oil based paints are easier to paint on detailed surfaces like molding and hardwood trim. However, that traditional approach is slowly changing as better latexes, including Pratt & Lambert's Accolade Interior Acrylic Semi Gloss, come on the market.

Exterior Paints Coatings for Each Job

Moisture is an important consideration for exterior paint selection. Every day a family group of four will generate several gallons of vaporized water inside a house.

Coupled with naturally occurring humidity, this may mean a a large amount of moisture moving through the wall space and siding. Wetness is highest in the baths and kitchen. If these rooms aren't sufficiently ventilated, moisture will migrate through the wall space. Vapor barriers help contain wetness, but vapor always seeks to escape. The structure of a home, the kind of vapor barrier they have, ventilation, and moisture all make choosing the right paint critical.

In wetter climates you need a paint that will let moisture go through the wood, so water doesn't get trapped under the paint and cause blistering and peeling. Latexes are porous and let moisture pass through, unlike alkyd paints, which form a waterproof seal. Alkyds also don't flex with areas that expand and contract, as wood does, especially in colder climates. Latex paints have significantly more elasticity, allowing better adhesion.

I favor using latex on all exterior areas, including wood siding, stucco, and masonry. Latexes avoid fading much better than most oil-based paints, and they will cover either oil-based or latex primer (most oils have to go over an alkyd primer).

Latexes perform a great job of covering cement. Despite its hardness, concrete is very porous, and oil-based paints don't always stick well. For ideal durability, I would recommend latex enamel.

In general, if I know of a latex product that will provide superior performance, I will choose it over an oil-based product that needs to be cleaned with a thinner.

Latex only needs water. Thinners add yet another expenditure, are hard to dispose of, and usually end up spattered on my skin or clothes, no matter how careful I am.

Improve Your Staining for Interior Work

You are able to spend a life learning about stains and sealers, but there's nothing mysterious about them. The bottom line in determining which stain to make use of is to familiarize yourself with the product lines available. Scan the label, along with any product information you can get, and speak to the personnel at a professional paint shop.

Exterior stains come in oil based, varnish, polyurethane, and water-borne solvents. Stains have less colorant than paint and even more solvents, providing them with greater wood penetration. Waterproofing is important with exterior stains. Most include built-in sealants to add durability and help preserve the wood. The color in stains can be pigments, dyes, or both. A semi-transparent stain has more dye for grain penetration. A solid stain has more pigment for surface covering. Pigment is a finely ground coloring that doesn't penetrate the grain as deeply as a dye. That is why a pigmented stain is obviously used along with a sealer such as urethane or varnish.

Some high quality interior stains have dyes to penetrate and pigments to draw out the richness of the grain. Others contain only pigments, which are simpler to apply, blend, and touch up. Pigmented stains are lighter in color and bring out more of the wood grain. If you are looking for darker results, a dyed stain will provide what you would like in one layer (be sure to use a conditioner on porous wood, such as pine and birch wood, to avoid splotching). Dyed stains are extremely difficult to touch up. Every coating eventually will require touching up, so be certain to consider the ease of maintenance in your selection of stains. You'll get the best results by using better stains such as Minwax, Pratt & Lambert's Tonetic, Pittsburgh's Rez, or Wood-Kote.

If you wish to steer clear of the watery nature of stains, get a gel stain, which had almost all of the water solvent removed. Gels are simple to use. They spread on, dry out fast, and cover evenly. Because they're colored with pigment, gel stains don't penetrate that well. They're a good choice for porous woods that are troublesome to cover evenly without a toner. Gel stains do a great job of bringing out the grain on embossed metal or composite surfaces. I don't recommend using them for hardwoods, which require a good dye stain to emphasize the depth and beauty of the grain.

How We Improved Our Painting With Sanding Sealers

Sanding sealers are interior primers that both penetrate and seal wood. You should use them under clear coats or on top of stains as sealers. Sanding sealers are different from a sealer like polyurethane, which is not made to prime. They're more like varnish, but diluted with solvents to permit better penetration for priming. The hardness of varnishes and lacquers inhibits them from soaking in to the wood pores. Sanding sealer provides a better bond for clear coats.

Shellacs tend to be added to sanding sealers to fortify the resin and offer a quick drying agent. In addition they add an amber tone, so if you are using a sanding sealer with shellac, make sure it will not affect the stain. Shellacs have a tendency to yellow aver time and contain toluene, that has a very high VOC content. Shellacs are slowly offering ways to new sanding sealer formulas with lower VOCs and better performance.

Alkyd resin sanding sealers likewise have high VOCs, although less than their shellac based cousins. Pittsburgh Paints makes a slow drying alkyd resin sanding sealer without shellac named Rez 77-1. This specific primer/sealer is good for both interiors and exteriors. Pratt & Lambert's Latex Sanding Sealer has suprisingly low VOCs, but is strictly for interior wood and must not be used under a water based polyurethane.

Oil-based sanding sealers can also be utilized to seal exterior wood, especially decking, which is constantly subjected to sun and water. For color regularity in areas like decks, it's best to completely coat, or back prime, the wood before it is in place, using the same sealer or stain. Olympic Water Guard, Messmer's UV Plus, Behr's, and most top quality deck stains are great water repellent sealers that also can be utilized for priming outdoor wood.

Method for Wood and Stain Sealers on Interior Wood

Sealers, including varnishes, lacquers, urethanes, and shellacs, are added to the stain itself, applied as a top coat over a stain, or used as a clear coat on unstained wood trim. They could be used for just about any type of wood trim, including windows, doors, and the casing around them. Although you can purchase stain/sealer combinations, they tend to yellow, are difficult to keep up, and don't last as long as separately applied stain and sealers.

Varnishes contain natural oils such as Tung oil, a very hard, durable sealant that can be brushed on and dries slowly. Varnishes are easy to clean and maintain with soap and water accompanied by a wiped on varnish, which usually keeps a wood surface looking ideal for years. Make sure there's no wax in your cleaner, because wax clogs wood pores. I prefer using Hope's Tung Oil varnish for a wipe-on maintenance layer. Lacquer is a fast drying sealer that more often than not must be sprayed, since it becomes tacky almost immediately.

Polyurethanes do almost anything shellac does, but they're better to maintain. While shellacs act like paint, polyurethanes act more like a clear coating that permeates the wood instead of sitting on top of it. Polyurethanes brush on and dry out quickly, with little odour and VOCs. They have more or less replaced shellacs as a clear sealer. Another reason urethanes have become such popular sealers is that they don't require sanding sealers.

The odors associated with many paints and stains can be more than just offensive, they can be toxic. Solvent based varnishes, lacquers, and shellacs provide a very hard covering but contain very high VOC levels. Water based sealers, like the stains, match the performance of many solvent based sealers, with fewer VOCs. The VOC content of water borne sealers such as Sherwin Williams Kern Aqua Lacquer average about 250 grams per liter, or 2 pounds per gallon, half the most common VOCs of oil-based lacquers. The ethers in water borne sealers aren't combustible, another advantage, but they still have sufficient VOCs to warrant a respirator.

Although they resist yellowing, water borne sealers such as acrylic latex polyurethanes do tend to raise the grain. They will also harden or "flash off" quickly at temperatures greater than 60°F. The very best working temperature for most water borne acrylic latex polyurethanes is between 50°F and 60°F, which lets them flash a little more slowly. In this case, flashing-off simply means that the solvent evaporates and leaves the resins to finish the drying out process. A contractor I knew once used water borne latex polyurethane sealer that flashed off so fast he could only apply it between 5 A.M. and 9 A.M. Anything later than that was too warm.

Minwax makes very good water based polyurethane, as do Pittsburgh, Pratt & Lambert, Benjamin Moore, and others.

Method for Stains and Sealers on Exteriors

Due to their better penetration and sealing ability, most exterior stains sold today are oil-based. However, oil-based solid stains peel off as they grow older, making them more difficult to maintain. A solid stain is similar to paint: It coats more than it penetrates. A latex solid stain peels less which is simpler to maintain as it ages. However, I favor oil-based products for semi-transparent stains. Added oil solvents let them penetrate deeper. Some of the better stains on the marketplace include Pittsburgh Solid Color Latex Stain, Messmer's U.V Plus, Moorwood Solid Color Exterior Stain, Sherwin Williams Woodscape stains, Pittsburgh Semi-transparent Exterior Stain, Rez Deck Stain by Pittsburgh, and the Sikkens Cetol system.

Deck stains usually have more solids when compared to a typical outside stain, which will make them more durable. I would recommend buying a high-end stain that is semi-transparent or what's called a trans-oxide. Until lately, the major problem with outside stains was their low UV resistance, but newer trans-oxides have finely ground metal mixed in for increased protection. A high end deck stain won't need a different sealer coating, although you can add one (such as Olympic Water Guard) if you think extra protection is needed to combat water and sun exposure. Better deck stains retail for about $35 a gallon and cover 300 to 400 sq. ft.

Avoid using deck stains that contain silicone. Despite their attractive price, they are not a good deal. Advertisements for silicone stains and deck sealers often show beaded up water over a deck, and many people are fooled into thinking that this is actually the indication of a successful coating. However, silicone breaks down quickly, usually in a matter of months, leaving a discolored, waxy coat that is a pain to eliminate. The deteriorated silicone also quits repelling water.

"High build" coatings such as Sikkens and Messmers work remarkably well on outside siding, but they are too soft to be used on your deck. Stripping these coatings takes gallons of wood cleaner and way too much work.

Water based outside stains, such as Sherwin Williams Woodscapes, combine the benefits of oil-based and latex coatings. They run and drip less than oil based stain, and dry faster, allowing for two coatings the same day. Water based stains have the resilience and flexibility of any latex stain, giving them lasting strength. They're a good choice for some applications. However that clearing up water borne stains calls for work. You will find a couple of oil components in the solvent which have to be cleaned. First use soap and water, then alcohol. Ask your supplier for specific cleaning guidelines for water borne stains, and read the label.

When In Doubt, Ask Questions

In the event that you still have questions about which paint or stain to use, don't hesitate to ask people in the know. A skilled, competent salesperson can answer any questions it's likely you have. Look for a paint store with staff having at least 10 years of experience in the business. Ask them what has worked best for your unique application and ask to read a spec sheet on the merchandise in question.

The answers you get will depend on whom you ask. A paint store will attempt to market you one their own products, in the end, that is why they're running a business. Painting contractors might not be impartial, either. They need to sell their experience. I get a lot of telephone calls from people needing assistance with their painting problems. Most painters, including myself, don't object to giving one hour of our time, but if you need comprehensive answers, consider finding a contractor for a professional evaluation. Rates vary, but I charge about $60 for a written and oral analysis, depending on traveling time involved. A paid examination will let you know whether you should paint, stain, or re-side, as well as which finish might be best for finishing your project. Each painting job has unique conditions that warrant specific answers.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

Friday, May 7, 2021

Exactly What You Are Looking For - Paint Coatings for Every Job

Problem Solved - Finally, Paint Coatings for Each and Every Job

The right type of coating is crucial. If you select the incorrect paint, it will not matter how much effort and money you spend on your job. Too many flawlessly great paint jobs deteriorate too soon because the wrong primer and paint were used.

A dependable rule of thumb is to complement the existing finish. If you are painting or staining on top of latex paint, recoat with latex. You may have all sorts of choices if the surface is uncoated, nevertheless, you still need to consider weather, maintenance, and sturdiness to find the best coating for for the project.

No-Fuss Painting Using Primers

Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It determines how well the finish is protected and how long the paint will last. Knowing when to use primers trips up painters almost nearly as much as which primers to work with. Basically, you need to use a primer if you are covering a fresh or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more even. About the sole time you don't need to prime is when you're recoating with the same paint and finish over a solid paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.

To ensure compatibility, choose a product that's part of your paint system. By paint system I mean a primer and top coat produced by the same company. Labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coatings for various materials and conditions. Unless you want to deal with reading the small print, ask to view the spec, or data sheet, on a specific primer. In case a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have more information than you will ever need and you may want help translating some of the terms and specifications.

Primers form an even foundation for the top coatings by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all types of bare surfaces. Without first priming a fresh or reconditioned surface, you will discover that the top coatings end up flaking off much sooner than you would expect. Even though you can use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the error of thinking that primers are optional, or can be made out of diluted paint.

Usually in one coat most primers even out surfaces and places which may have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will require a second layer of primer to ensure an even undercoat, but often one is enough. The house pictured below serves as an example of a project where two applications of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to give it a smooth base for the top layers. Some climates almost demand another layer of primer. I've heard of one contractor in Florida who always double primes to ensure that his work last. In the event that you live near ocean water, I recommend that you take into account doing the same.

Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trimming. You might think that a primer would smooth a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed piece of trim it always feels rough. That's because primer forces out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for the top. (Here is a tip: If you tint your primer the color of the finish coat, it is possible to quicken the painting process by minimizing the amount of top layers needed. Tinting is mostly used for color changes, although it's also handy for areas like bare drywall.)

Take The Headache Out of Primers For Interior Walls and Ceilings

I would recommend using latex primers wherever possible. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior trouble spots, including the laundry room and shower, that need a good sealant and a water-resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter parts of the house, although there are excellent latex primers that seal about as well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the sleeping rooms, living room, and closets. I spray a latex primer on new construction because new properties have satisfactory vapor barriers. Also, I can paint an oil-based top coating over latex primer.

Older houses demand room-by-room decisions on what primer to work with. If the home does not have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will require a primer that seals the surfaces and keeps wetness from getting between the surface and the paint.

Latex stain blockers and sealers will be the answer to priming damp rooms in your residence. These quick drying primers help condition areas with water, cigarette smoke, and tannin spots, and they can be recoated rapidly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a superb latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all the benefits of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also works as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. If your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it will maintain an even sheen over primer. You may warrant compatibility by using a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.

With regards to walls, understand that plaster and drywall will vary. Plaster is highly alkaline, specially when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it is not properly sealed. There are numerous primers you can use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top layer and finish you've planned.

Drywall is a lot less alkaline than plaster. I prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coats will be an oil-based paint, in which particular case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I understand that there are perfectly good latex primers for any type of top coating, but old behaviors are hard to let go of.) When painting new drywall, I'll sometimes add joint compound to the primer for a little texture. Mixed with primer, joint compound also helps smooth over any sanding markings or roughness.

Improved Primers For Interior Wood

When choosing primer, you should consider the type and condition of the surface, the kind of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the top coats, and the sort of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).

Frequently I prime interior trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost moisture in older wood. There are also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, like the high moisture common in restrooms and kitchens, may require a breathable latex primer if you can't prime all over the wood. If you can completely apply primer the wood before it goes up, an alkyd primer will protect most of the wood trim from wetness. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a specialist if your job has many different variables

Method For Priming Exteriors

Even though I prefer latex paint for the exterior, I still choose to use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do a better job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the residence has no major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good shape (which usually means that it's new), especially if I had access to the siding and wood trim before it is attached to the building. It's always better to seal all around the wood (however, not the ends) to provide each piece its vapor barrier.

New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long time, even if the lumber has air-dried for a few months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a moderate detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are fairly porous, so you may need to wait a day or two to let them dry. There's a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the outside, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coats of an alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the final layers. Any staining that happens after that can usually be washed off with special wood cleaners.

Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a special challenge. Having less grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to bond to. In case the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to eliminate all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially produced hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When blended with a top coating, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other top quality sealers also work very well on metal or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.

Primers For Metals Applications

Every metallic should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, so the primer gets thorough contact with the surface. Most metal areas can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes come from the factory with a stabilizer that can be tough to eliminate, and could need more than simply thinner. Check with your paint store if you need to be sure a primer will continue to work on new galvanized metal surfaces.

You can find primers for each and every type of metal. Ferrous metals, made of iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is nearly impossible to totally remove unless you sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can remain that will grow again under an unsealed surface or the wrong primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the surface from contact with air. Some companies make reference to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller projects like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've had good luck using.

Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be layered with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a specific primer for new galvanized material. Older galvanized steel can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned previously.

As with any top coating, the more time the primer has to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much by any means and stay right where they're applied, for better or for worse. A clean surface is particularly important when using an instant drying primer. Remember that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while others advise against using any type of solvent cleaner. Scan the directions carefully.

A vintage technique that still is effective for cleaning new or old metals is washing the surface with a one-to-one mix of vinegar and water. Vinegar is an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a metal material if mixed at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It gives the surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is convenient for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be utilized to completely clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will damage the galvanizing.

Improved Masonry Primers

Whether it's inside or out, masonry usually requires a primer or sealer that will resist moisture and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out over time, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The cause of the efflorescence, usually water, must be fixed for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry must cure for 3 months before you prime and paint it, especially if it is highly alkaline, like stucco.

Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it could be painted on masonry that is a week old. Stucco, which is actually coloured mortar and filled with lime, is a great surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints also offers a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's provided for oil-based paint. Additionally you can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top overcoat, but it's important that you use latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these situations I've had success adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I recommend it for nearly all masonry applications.

Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only procedure to speed up the drying time of concrete. You could still etch if you are so willing, although if I never see another container of muriatic acid, that would be just fine. (If it etches cement, imagine how well it etches epidermis!) Etching takes a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, remember a respirator, specially when you combine the acid with the water. Important: Add the acid to water, not the other way around. If you add water to acid it'll splash and burn off anything it contacts. And combine it in the correct ratio, usually one to three. Make sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.

Reconditioning older, peeling concrete floors can be considered a chore. You need to keep them well preserved and recoat them regularly, before they need to be completely redone. Cement floors in really bad condition should be sandblasted, or you can use a new system called Peel-Away which makes prepping masonry a lttle bit easier (it's still no picnic). If the floor is in good condition, prep the surface and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.

For new concrete floors, I would recommend a concrete stain manufactured by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My preference is water based stain, since silicone is a wax that eventually will wash off. Concrete stain penetrates and seals without needing scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading much better than a top coating like latex.

Older, pre-painted concrete floors need to be repainted with a similar top overcoat, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top layer is best applied over a typical concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also works well. An oil-based top overcoat requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I'd add Penetrol to the primer for a longer lasting bond.

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824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

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Wednesday, April 28, 2021

Consider Hiring a Painting Contractor

Facts to Consider When Finding a Painting Contractor

Undertaking a paint job always demands some forethought beyond color choices and decorative themes. Painting an area is simple enough. Actually, it's just about the perfect do-it-yourself house improvement project. Nevertheless it is a task that places demands on your time and effort, finances, and skills. So before you haul out the brushes, paint cans, and ladders, ask yourself a few questions.

• How much preparation will I need to do and will I have available time to do it?

• Am I up to the hard elements of the job, such as climbing ladders and moving furniture?

• Do I have the patience to learn a new skill, and can I accept that my initial progress might be slow and somewhat frustrating?

• Will I have the ability to live with a house left unfinished if I am called away or when I have to go back to work after the weekend?

• Are there aspects of the job I can do but merely don't enjoy? Are there parts of the job I could do myself and parts I need to contract out?

In case your answers to these questions cause you to opt to contract all or some of the project, then begin gathering bids and searching for a contractor methodically.

First, talk with friends and neighbors and get their advice about contractors they may have used. Have a look at the quality of the work done for people you know so you can make sure the quality of the work meets your standards.

Then, contact at least three of the most notable contractors to discuss the job you want done. Meet with all of them individually to look at the job and discuss the specific work details.

What You Should Ask Your Painting Contractor

• For each surface (including trim, stucco, aluminum siding, walls, etc), ask exactly what will be done to get it ready for priming including what type and make of primer. Then ask your contractor about the finish coat, including the type and brand of the paint, how it will be applied, its quality, and the number of coats. Make sure the contractor use high quality paint. An excellent acrylic latex paint may cost more initially, but its strength will save money in the long run.

• For exterior work, ask what will be done to protect landscape plants. For interior work, learn how furniture will be protected and moved.

• Ask when the contractor can begin the job and exactly how long it will take. It's also advisable to know what cure will be employed if the work is not completed promptly.

• Discuss the warranty on the paint job, how long it is, whether it covers both labor and materials, what kind of failures are covered (peeling, cracking, fading), and what will be done to rectify such failures.

• Make sure the contractor is bonded and insured. Bonding will replace your costs if the contractor fails to complete the job. Insurance will cover any injury to any of the workers. Without such insurance, you might be responsible for such injuries. Insurance may also cover damages done to your residence.

• Ask each contractor for the names and contact information for previous customers. Call a few of the references and ask when you can see the contractor's work.

• Get written estimates from at least three contractors. Be wary of any bids that are significantly higher or less than others. Bids from reputable contractors are usually fairly close to each other for the same work. The estimate should break down material and labor costs and show payment terms.

Before you make your final choice, consider the contractor's demeanor. He or she should be responsive, punctual, and business like when returning calls or arriving for an appointment. The contractor should remember to reply to your questions and make clear details of the job.

Deciding on a Painting Contractor

Once you've selected a specialist painter, that contractor should submit a formal written contract for the work (unless the bid or estimate was already in contractual form). The document should spell out everything you have discussed with the contractor about your painting. it must specify these exact things:

• the work to be achieved

• the materials to be utilized

• the starting and completion dates and remedies for failure to stay on schedule

• methods for resolving disputes

• procedures for making changes (change orders are alterations to the contract to which both parties must agree)

• evidence of insurance and bonding and licensing if required by local ordinance

Before you make final payment, inspect the job with the contractor, making notes about anything that needs correction (proper coverage, cleanup, and so forth). The contractor should correct the issues before you make final payment.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

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Sunday, April 18, 2021

How to Make Practical Decisions When Painting Your Home

Plan to Make Sensible Decisions When You Paint Your House.

Thinking about a significant paint upgrade or perhaps freshening up a much loved space in your house? There are several motivating factors when deciding whether to start a DIY project painting Lake Stevens or contact a professional. Firstly it may be beneficial to clearly estimate the financial expense verses the challenges you will face. A quality paint job could provide protection for 5 - 10 years to all of your surfaces helping to retain your home’s value. If surface maintenance is neglected it could be very costly to correct after the damage seriously compromises any inner structure. There are a couple of reasons for either an interior or exterior paint job – for example you may well be sick and tired of an outdated color scheme and want a fresh modern look. The important thing is to consider all the essential aspects of completing your paint job in a logical way which means that your outcome justifies your time and efforts and expense.

Which Seasons Has Better Climatic Conditions for Painting Your Home?

The very best climatic conditions for interior painting are moderate humidity and temperatures - that is early fall or late spring generally in most nation. Temperature and humidity affect the way paint bonds and flows to the surface. You could operate a humidifier if the environment is really dry or add a conditioner in the paint to boost its flow.

You will have choices to consider - a DIY or consider asking for advice from a professional with a quote. You may be really good at painting and revel in the creative process, but for a lot of people, painting is tedious and boring. The truth is that most people don’t obtain the results they had hoped for because they ignore the importance of proper preparation and don’t have a methodical plan. A plan will keep you on track, help you process all the pros and cons of whether to consider a quote from a skilled professional.

Picking the Best Paint.

Not using the right product is going to be a waste of money, effort and time. it is vital to analyze the right paint for your job.

House Paint: Paint Is Either Water Based (Latex) or Alkyd Based.

Water-based paints are often referred to as latex or acrylic paint. These have minimal odor and release fewer VOCs when drying. The color pigments are carried by water so they don’t use solvents.

Latex paint is simple to apply and tidy up. The improved chemistry of today’s Latex makes it appropriate for practically every application. Some clients believe that alkyd paint allows for a smoother finish surface. There exists feed-back that folks feel alkyd paint permits a smoother surface, thus an increased quality finish. Latex paint is not hard to use as well as clean afterwards.

All flat to glossy enamel paints come in various "Sheens" Flat paints are normally used for most ceilings and wall applications. The majority of enamels dry to a shiny finish and are being used for surfaces that need to be washed often, such as walls in bathrooms, kitchens, and for woodwork.

Flat paints are almost always used for ceiling and wall applications. The costs of paint generally are a good reflection of quality as they cost more to create. Top quality paints look much better than budget paints because they cover the surface better, endure longer and are simpler to apply. This means generally you will need fewer coats and can usually end up being cheaper in the long run. So if you need value for money, pick the best quality paint your finances can afford.

Alkyd base enamels have the highest gloss. Eggshell enamel combines the wash ability of enamel with a soft finish. Flat latex is an all-purpose paint that hides surface irregularities but with a soft finish. In areas that are washed constantly, a gloss enamel offers a highly reflective finish - which is simply perfect for such areas. Medium-gloss latex enamel has a slightly less reflective finish but is a perfect highly washable surface. The down side is all gloss paints have a tendency to show surface flaws.

Interior paints have specific qualities that are needed in high use areas: Resistance to alkaline cleaners, maintenance of surface hue or sheen - won’t get shiny when rubbed. Scrub ability, splatter resistance, doesn’t lose its color. Won’t stick to other surfaces, stain resistance, you don’t see mark, easy touch up.

Ceilings:

Flat paint is a good choice because provides uniform sheen and it doesn’t reflect light.

Walls:

In general living rooms and bedrooms should be painted with Satin paint because it is easy to clean, resists stains and comes with an elegant look. Also in kitchens and bathrooms paint with satin or semi-gloss because they're both stain resistant, easy to clean. Gloss provides durability and is simple to completely clean and maintain.

Primers: The Most Important Step in the Process!

It is vital to always utilize a good primer for those surfaces before painting. An excellent primer will bond to the walls surface which gives a durable base. This base then effectively helps to keep the final coat from peeling or cracking. When using deep or dark colors choose a tinted primer to accomplish good coverage, accentuate the paints sheen reducing the amount of coats applications.

The primers purpose is to bond to wood and seal all the porous surfaces such as in dry wall. It generally dries quickly so the finish coat can be employed sooner. So a good primer saves time and money. Consider tinting your primer to the color of your paint - particularly if changing the color over a surface - it is vital if you would like to achieve the precise color you picked out. It helps to block the previous color from interfering with the new color. Sadly many people skip the primer and go to the color coats. This shortcut, for reasons uknown, frequently backfires as it can take a supplementary coat of color to attain the coverage you want. Primer is cheaper than paint, so missing that step both wastes your time and money.

Deciding on the Colors for Your Residence.

Colors should highlight or improve your space. Organize your paint chips or color palettes/charts and choose your color preferences. Organize the colors and compare those to the things in the room: Floor coverings, furniture and window features - curtains or blinds. Just how do the colors contrast with each item? A simple way to achieve this is to make a color board with fabric pieces and floor finishes, or, the nearest colors of every item in the room and near by spaces - don’t forget about flow in one room to some other. View them with the picture as a whole in mind as you want a cohesive look.

Making Your Budget.

Time for you to list the costs you are going to incur and which paints are best for your spaces. What is it going to cost to do the job yourself? You'll need some basic equipment if you don’t already have them in your storage space. Setting up a budget can be an essential and a practical way of compiling those costs which will be incurred. Getting a free quote from a specialist will allow you to assess the total cost of the complete project. (Materials - equipment, labor and time - don’t forget stress.)

It's very stressful for family when everyone becomes overwhelmed because of delays. There could be aspects of the painting project you are good at but you don’t enjoy or have time to complete. Perhaps you can consider contracting that aspect to a professional? If you cannot complete a quality job within your budget it can turn into a lemon and set you back dearly rather than saving you money.

There's always the choice to compare what it would cost you to do a job yourself and what a professional would charge. You may take advantage of free competitive quotes to help keep within your budget for paint job. It’s easy! There is absolutely no obligation or commitment when you request a quote, you will be charged nothing at all and it only takes 2 - 3 minutes. Consider requesting a quote from several contractors in Lake Stevens, WA.

It is good to truly have a knowledge of any contractors policies or methods and the products they will be using. Also as you think of things make a list of your questions that you feel important to your project outcome.

Ask the Contractor.

When is the likely starting and completion date. What is the contractual cover for not completing the project in the specified time frame?

Important information about any contractor is the contractor bonded and insured. A bonding will replace your costs if the contractor does not get the job done. Insurance is required to cover any injury to some other workers. The insurance question is important as you could be liable for such injuries. Insurance could also cover possible harm to your premises. Sometimes you can follow up with references from previous customers.

It is always a great option to get free quotes from at least three contractors. Reliable contractors tend to give similar quotes to each home owner for the same kind of job. The estimate should list labor and material costs - with payment terms.

Cover all of your bases! Make a budget, create a plan, then compare it to several professional quotes. A quote is free and provides you the power of making an informed choice for painting Lake Stevens

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

soundqualitypainting.com

Painting Lake Stevens

Our Service Areas:

Local Painters Lake Stevens

Wednesday, April 7, 2021

STAINS AND PAINTS

WHAT PAINTS AND STAINS DO

Nearly every kind of surface, from drywall to concrete, needs protection from the elements. These damaging elements can range from raging blizzards to innocent looking sunlight on a living room wall. The full total thickness of the paint that ends up on the exterior of your home is usually about one tenth the thickness of your skin, and interior paint is even thinner. We ask a lot of that covering of skin. What it can do depends on a number of factors, like the quality and kind of paint or stain, and how well the surfaces prepped and painted.

Paint and stain should be durable, resisting fading and abrasion and allowing repeated washings. Interior paint should go on with reduced spattering. An excellent interior stain or clear finish should resist fading, peeling, or yellowing, and also be easy to keep up, free of impurities or waxes which could collect dirty residue and make cleaning or recoating difficult. Exterior paints should dry with a toughness that resists deterioration from all types of exposure, and an elasticity which allows for constantly expanding and contracting surfaces. With their deep penetration and resistance to ultraviolet (UV) light, the stains and finishes on your home's external surfaces should give a similar high performance.

The History of Paint and Stain

The oldest known paint was employed by the painters of Lascaux, who ground natural pigments with water and a binder that might have been honey, starch, or gum. You might be wondering why these cave paintings have lasted a large number of years as the paint on the south part of your house is peeling after only three winters. Here's why: The continuous mild temperature, humidity, and dark interiors of caves are ideal chemical preservatives. Your home, on the other hand, is exposed to all types of weather and conditions.

The Egyptians knew as early as 1000 B.C. that paint could protect as well as decorate. Beeswax, vegetable oils, and gum arabic were heated and mixed with Earth and vegetable dyes to paint images which may have lasted thousands of years. The Egyptians used asphalt and pitch to preserve their paintings. The Romans later used white lead pigment, developing a formula that could exist almost unchanged until 1950.

The Chinese used oil from the Tung tree to cement the Great Wall, and to preserve wood. The Chinese used gums and resins to make advanced varnishes such as, shellac, turpentine, copal, and mastic. The formulas and applications for those varnishes also transformed little in the following centuries.

Milk paint dates back to Egyptian times, was widely used up until the late 1800’s when oil-based paints were introduced. Odorless and non-toxic, milk paint today is being revived as an excellent interior paint. Cassein, the protein in milk, dries very level and hard, and can be tinted with other pigments. Like stains, milk paint needs to be sealed with a wax or varnish, and is very durable.

Created from hogs' bristles, badger and goat hair, brushes also changed little for several centuries. Bristles were hand bound, rosined, and greased, then hand laced into the stock of the brush. Hog's hair brushes, called China bristle brushes, remain a preferred brush for oil-based paints.

Pigments originally came from anything that bore a color, from ground up Egyptian mummies to pasture mud. Most mineral or inorganic pigments came from rust, potassium, sea salt, sulphur, alum (aluminum), and gypsum, among others. Some extravagant works incorporated precious stones such as lapis lazuli. Hundreds of organic and natural pigments from plants, insects, and animals made-up all of those other painter's palette.

Paints and stains changed little from the time of the Pharaohs to the Industrial Revolution. A book on varnishes publicized in 1773 was reprinted 14 times until 1900, with only minor revisions. However, the colder climates of northern Europe have brought about the necessity for more durable paint, and in the 1500s the Dutch artist Jan van Eyck developed oil-based paint.

Starting during the Middle Ages lead, arsenic, mercury, and various acids were used as binders and color enhancers. These and other metals made the mixing and painting process dangerous. Paints and varnishes were usually blended on site, in which a ground pigment was mixed with lead, oil, and solvents over sustained high heat. The maladies that arose from harmful exposure were common among painters at least until the late 1800s, when paint companies commenced to batch ready mix coatings. While exposure to toxins given off through the mixing process subsided, exposure to the harmful substances inherent in paints and stains didn't change much before 1960s, when companies ceased making lead based paints.

World War I forced the U.S. painting industry to modernize. Manufacturers had to find a replacement for the natural pigments and dyes that came from Germany. They began to synthesize dyes. Today many pigments and dyes are chemically synthesized.

Improvements in the painting industry have extended well beyond pigments. Water-based latexes have gained in attractiveness as a safe, quality option to oil-based paints. Latexes have altered from simple "whitewashes" to highly advanced coatings that can outlast oil-based products. Both oil-based and latex coatings are emerging every year with noteworthy improvements, like the ground metal or glass that's now added to reflect destroying UV light.

A milestone in the evolution of coatings occurred in the very early 1990s with the introduction of a fresh class of paints and stains known as "water borne." Created by the need to adhere to stricter regulations, water borne coatings decrease the volatile organic materials, or VOCs, found in standard paint and stains. Toxic and flammable, VOCs evaporate as a coating's solvent dries. They could be inhaled or assimilated through your skin, and create ozone pollution when subjected to sunlight.

PAINT AND STAINS MAKE UP

Paints and stains contain four basic types of ingredients: solvents, binders, pigments, and additives.

Binders and Solvents

Solvents will be the vehicle or medium, for the materials in a paint or stain. They determine how fast a finish dries and how it hardens. Water and alcohol are the main solvents in latex. Oil-based solvents range from mineral spirits (thinner) to alcohols and xylene, to napthas. The solvent also includes binders, which form the "skin" when the paint dries. Binders give paint adhesion and resilience. The cost of paint will depend in large part upon the grade of its binder.

Because water is the vehicle in latex paint, it dries quickly, enabling recoating the same day. The odor that you see when utilizing a latex paint or stain is the "flashing," or evaporation, of the binder and solvents. The binders in latex are minute, suspended beads of acrylic or vinyl acrylic that "weld" as the paint dries. Latex enamels include a better amount of acrylic resins for greater hardness and durability.

Alkyds and oil-based paints are basically the same thing. The term alkyd is derived from "alcid," a mixture of alcohol and acid that acts as the drying agent. Both have the same binders, which might include linseed, soy, or Tung oils. Oil based and alkyd enamels may contain polyurethanes and epoxies for extra hardness. Alkyd paints come in high performance combinations such as two part polyester-epoxy for commercial use and a urethane improved alkyd for home use. Urethane boosts resilience.

Water borne coatings use a two part drying system: water is the drying agent, and oils form a hard-drying resin. These new coatings match and sometimes out perform their oil-based cousins. They resist yellowing, are more durable, require only water clean-up, have little odor, and are non-flammable. One disadvantage: They swell solid wood grain and require sanding between coats.

Stain and Paint Pigments

Pigments are the costliest component in paint. In addition to providing color, pigments also affect paint's hiding power - its capability to hide an identical color with as few coats as you can. Titanium dioxide is the principal and most expensive ingredient in pigment. Top quality paints not only have significantly more titanium dioxide, but also more finely ground pigment. Inexpensive paints use coarsely ground pigment, which doesn't bind well and washes off easier.

Paint and Stain Additives

Additives regulate how well a paint contacts, or wets, the surface area. They also help paint flow, level, dry, and resist mildew. Oil is the surfactant, or wetting agent, in oil-based paint. These paints have a natural thickness and capacity to flow and level; they go on smoother than latex and dry more slowly, so brush marks have more time to level out. That is why oil-based paints tend to run on vertical walls more than latexes do.

Latex paint has been playing catch up with oil-based paint over the years. Today many latexes outperform oil-based paints and primers, thanks to thickeners, wetting agents (soapy substances that are also called surfactants), drying inhibitors, defoamers, fungicides, and coalescents. Defoamers keep latex paint from bubbling and leaving pinpricks (called "pin holing") in the paint as it dries. Bubbling is triggered when the soap wetting agent rises to the surface as it dries. The better the paint, the less pin holing you will have. It used to be that if latex paint was shaken at the paint store you would have to let it to settle for a couple of hours. It is no longer the truth with better paints, which is often opened up and used right out of the shaker without threat of pin holing.

Coalescents help latex resins bond, especially in colder weather. Oil-based paint, since it dries slowly and resists freezing, can stick and dry in temperature from 50°F to 120°F. With added coalescents and, believe it or not, antifreeze, some latexes can be employed in the same temperature range, and even lower. Some exterior latexes can be securely applied at temperatures as low as 35°F. Companies including Pratt & Lambert, Pittsburgh Paint, and Sherwin Williams have removed the surfactants to help their latex paints be applied in lower temperatures. Because the wetting agents have been removed, the latex dries faster.

UV blocking additives have been put into paints and stains to help slow the aging process. Sunlight is responsible for a lot of the break down of any covering. It fades colors, dries paint, and adds to the expansion and contraction process that makes paint crack and peel off. UV blockers in paint may contain finely ground metals and ground glass which is now being added for even more reflection of the sun's rays.

If you live in a region with tons of humidity, rainfall, and insects, you may want to consider adding a biocide or fungicide to your paint. Biocide deters insects, and fungicide counters mildew. Many coatings already contain some fungicide, but only in small concentrations because of strict interstate regulations.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Local Painters Lake Stevens

Sunday, April 4, 2021

MORE ABOUT STAINS AND PAINTS

THE PURPOSE OF STAINS AND PAINTS

Almost every kind of surface, from drywall to concrete, needs protection from the elements. These damaging elements can range between raging blizzards to innocent looking sunlight on a dining room wall. The total thickness of the paint that eventually ends up outside of your house is usually about one tenth the thickness of your own skin, and interior paint is even thinner. We ask a whole lot of that coating of skin. What it can do will depend on a variety of factors, including the quality and kind of paint or stain, and how well the surfaces are prepared and painted.

Paint and stain should be durable, resisting fading and abrasion and allowing repeated washings. Interior paint can go on with minimal spattering. A quality interior stain or clear finish should resist fading, peeling, or yellowing, and also be easy to maintain, free from impurities or waxes that could collect dirt and make cleaning or recoating difficult. Outside paints should dry with a toughness that resists deterioration from all sorts of exposure, and an elasticity that allows for constantly expanding and contracting surfaces. With their deep penetration and amount of resistance to ultraviolet (UV) light, the stains and finishes on your home's outside surfaces should provide a similar high performance.

Historical Development of Stain and Paint

The oldest known paint was employed by the painters of Lascaux, who ground natural pigments with water and a binder that may have been honey, starch, or gum. You may be wondering why these cave paintings have lasted a large number of years while the paint on the south part of your home is peeling after only three winters. Here's why: The constant mild temperature, humidity, and dark interiors of caves are ideal chemical preservatives. Your home, on the other hand, is subjected to all types of weather and conditions.

The Egyptians knew as soon as 1000 B.C. that paint could protect as well as decorate. Beeswax, vegetable oils, and gum arabic were warmed and mixed with Earth and vegetable dyes to paint images that have lasted a large number of years. The Egyptians used asphalt and pitch to protect their paintings. The Romans later used white lead pigment, making a formula that would exist almost unchanged until 1950.

The Chinese used oil from the Tung tree to cement the Great Wall, and also to preserve wood. The Chinese used gums and resins to make complex varnishes such as, shellac, turpentine, copal, and mastic. The formulas and applications for those varnishes also transformed little during the centuries.

Milk paint goes back to Egyptian times, was widely used until the late 1800’s when oil-based paints were introduced. Odorless and non-toxic, milk paint today has been revived as an alternative interior paint. Cassein, the protein in milk, dries very level and hard, and can be tinted with other pigments. Like stains, milk paint should be covered with a wax or varnish, and it is very durable.

Created from hogs' bristles, badger and goat hair, brushes also transformed little for several centuries. Bristles were hand bound, rosined, and greased, then hand laced into the stock of the brush. Hog's hair brushes, called China bristle brushes, are still a preferred brush for oil-based paints.

Pigments originally originated from anything that bore a color, from ground up Egyptian mummies to pasture mud. Most mineral or inorganic pigments originated from rust, potassium, sea salt, sulphur, alum (aluminum), and gypsum, amongst others. Some extravagant projects incorporated precious stones such as lapis lazuli. A huge selection of organic and natural pigments from plants, insects, and animals made-up the rest of the painter's palette.

Paints and stains changed little from the time of the Pharaohs to the Industrial Revolution. A book on varnishes printed in 1773 was reprinted 14 times until 1900, with only slight revisions. However, the colder climates of northern Europe did bring about the need for more lasting paint, and in the 1500s the Dutch designer Jan van Eyck developed oil-based paint.

Starting during the Middle Ages lead, arsenic, mercury, and different acids were used as binders and color enhancers. These and other metals made the mixing and painting process unsafe. Paints and varnishes were usually blended on site, in which a ground pigment was mixed with lead, oil, and solvents over sustained high heating. The maladies that arose from poisonous exposure were common among painters at least before late 1800s, when paint companies commenced to batch ready mix coatings. While exposure to toxins given off through the mixing process subsided, contact with the harmful ingredients inherent in paints and stains didn't change much before 1960s, when companies ceased making lead based paints.

World War I forced the U.S. painting industry to modernize. Manufacturers had to discover a alternative to the natural pigments and dyes that came from Germany. They started out to synthesize dyes. Today many pigments and dyes are chemically synthesized.

Innovations in the painting industry have extended well beyond pigments. Water-based latexes have gained in reputation as a safe, quality alternative to oil-based paints. Latexes have altered from simple "whitewashes" to highly advanced coatings that can outlast oil-based products. Both oil-based and latex coatings are emerging each year with significant improvements, like the ground metal or glass that's now added to reflect harming UV light.

A milestone in the evolution of coatings occurred in the early 1990s with the introduction of a fresh category of paints and stains known as "water borne." Created by the need to comply with stricter regulations, water borne coatings decrease the volatile organic materials, or VOCs, found in standard paint and stains. Harmful and flammable, VOCs evaporate as a coating's solvent dries. They could be inhaled or absorbed through the skin, and create ozone pollution when subjected to sunlight.

PAINTS AND STAINS CHEMISTRY

Paints and stains contain four basic types of materials: solvents, binders, pigments, and additives.

Stain and Paint Solvents and Binders

Solvents will be the vehicle or medium, for the ingredients in a paint or stain. They regulate how fast a covering dries and exactly how it hardens. Water and alcohol are the primary solvents in latex. Oil-based solvents range between mineral spirits (thinner) to alcohols and xylene, to napthas. The solvent also contains binders, which form the "skin" when the paint dries. Binders give paint adhesion and durability. The expense of paint will depend in large part upon the grade of its binder.

Because water is the vehicle in latex paint, it dries quickly, allowing for recoating the same day. The odor that you notice when using a latex paint or stain is the "flashing," or evaporation, of the binder and solvents. The binders in latex are minute, suspended beads of acrylic or vinyl acrylic that "weld" as the paint dries. Latex enamels contain a greater amount of acrylic resins for better hardness and durability.

Alkyds and oil-based paints are basically the same thing. The word alkyd comes from "alcid," a mixture of alcohol and acid that acts as the drying agent. Both have the same binders, which may include linseed, soy, or Tung oils. Oil based and alkyd enamels may contain polyurethanes and epoxies for extra hardness. Alkyd paints come in powerful combinations such as two part polyester-epoxy for industrial use and a urethane revised alkyd for home use. Urethane boosts sturdiness.

Water borne coatings use a two part drying system: water is the drying agent, and oils form a hard-drying resin. These new coatings match and sometimes out perform their oil-based cousins. They resist yellowing, are stronger, require only water clean-up, have little odor, and are non-flammable. One disadvantage: They swell solid wood grain and require sanding between coats.

Pigments; Paint and Stain

Pigments are the costliest element in paint. Besides providing color, pigments also have an impact on paint's hiding power - its ability to hide a similar color with as few coats as you can. Titanium dioxide is the principal and most expensive ingredient in pigment. Top quality paints not only have significantly more titanium dioxide, but also more finely ground pigment. Inexpensive paints use coarsely ground pigment, which doesn't bind well and washes off more easily.

Additives; Paint and Stain

Additives regulate how well a paint contacts, or wets, the surface area. In addition they help paint flow, level, dry, and resist mildew. Oil is the surfactant, or wetting agent, in oil-based paint. These paints have a natural thickness and potential to flow and level; they go on smoother than latex and dry more slowly, so brush stridations have a chance to level out. That is why oil-based paints have a tendency to run on vertical walls more than latexes do.

Latex paint has been trying to catch up with oil-based paint over time. Today many latexes outperform oil-based paints and primers, because of thickeners, wetting agents (soapy substances that are also called surfactants), drying inhibitors, defoamers, fungicides, and coalescents. Defoamers keep latex paint from bubbling and leaving pinpricks (called "pin holing") in the paint as it dries. Bubbling is induced when the soap wetting agent rises to the surface as it dries. The better the paint, the less pin holing you should have. It used to be that if latex paint was shaken at the paint store you would have to allow it to settle for a few hours. This is no longer the situation with better paints, that can be opened and used right from the shaker with no threat of pin holing.

Coalescents help latex resins bond, especially in colder weather. Oil-based paint, because it dries slowly and resists freezing, can adhere and dry in temps from 50°F to 120°F. With added coalescents and, contrary to popular belief, antifreeze, some latexes can be applied in the same heat range, and even lower. Some outside latexes can be securely applied at temperatures as low as 35°F. Companies including Pratt & Lambert, Pittsburgh Paint, and Sherwin Williams have removed the surfactants to help their latex paints go on in lower temperature. As the wetting agents have been removed, the latex dries faster.

UV blocking additives have been put into paints and stains to help slow deterioration. Sunlight is accountable for a lot of the breakdown of any covering. It fades colors, dries paint, and adds to the expansion and contraction process which makes paint crack and peel off. UV blockers in paint may consist of finely ground metals and ground glass which is currently being added for even greater reflection of the sun's rays.

If you reside in a region with tons of humidity, rainwater, and insects, you may need to consider adding a biocide or fungicide to your paint. Biocide deters insects, and fungicide counters mildew. Many coatings already contain some fungicide, but only in small concentrations because of strict interstate regulations.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400